Dinner: Goat Cheese Custard

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 40 minutes

1/2 cups whole milk or half-and-half

1/4 onion

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

6 ounces goat cheese (see note)

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

Kosher salt, to taste

Vegetable oil for baking dish

Combine milk, onion, garlic, bay leaf and thyme in a medium saucepan over medium heat until bubbles start to form around the edges of the pan. Remove from heat, add goat cheese and stir until smooth. (Put back over low heat if goat cheese doesn't melt.) Let stand for 5 minutes, then strain into a glass measuring cup. Discard the solids.

Preheat oven to 350. Bring a teakettle of water to a boil.

Whisk eggs and yolks in a bowl. Add the goat cheese mixture and season with salt to taste. Oil a 4-cup ceramic baking dish or six 4-ounce ramekins. Pour goat cheese mixture into dish, place in a larger roasting pan. Fill the roasting pan with boiling water reaching halfway up sides of dish. Carefully transfer roasting pan to the oven. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until center is set up but still wobbly. (Watch closely; it will be closer to 30 minutes for smaller dishes and 40 for larger.)

Remove from heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Serve warm with a ragout spooned around.

Note: You can substitute any other cheese that melts well, such as finely grated Parmesan or Pecorino, or a creamy Gorgonzola dolce.